Of all the engagement rings, bezel settings are the most misunderstood, you either love them or hate them. If there's one thing we know for sure, it's that they're officially in style - they are both classic and cutting edge, especially across the UK, Europe and America.
The word "bezel," comes from the traditional French word for "ring". In a bezel setting, the diamond is encircled by a metal rim, instead of being held in place by the four or six prongs that are often seen in a solitaire engagement ring setting. Although bezel set engagement rings may seem outdated, they are absolutely in style right now.
There are different ways to bezel set a diamond ring. Bezels may be raised to stack wedding and eternity rings easily or lowered to rest lightly on the finger for more comfort.
Bezel Set Diamond Rings Reimagined
The bezels of the past are what you would imagine - bulky, hand hammered objects with no flare. Today's engagement ring bezel design is cleaner, more polished, smaller and offers comfort in addition to a noticeable golden glow when the light strikes it exactly so.
You can opt for a one tone gold bezel setting or a two tone gold, which creates a beautiful contrast and makes your diamond pop.
Prong set solitaires tend to catch on clothing and many modern brides prefer bezels for their smooth practicality and safety of the diamond encrusted in them.
Hollywood celebrities Sienna Miller and Lily Collins both opted for delicate bezel set engagement rings.
High Quality Bezel Engagement Ring Setting
Bezel settings emanate a low-key calm, practicality and understated glamour. These engagement rings are very flattering on the hand.
When a bezel is skilfully crafted, it can have an infinitely beautiful appearance, whilst of course poorly executed bezels may resemble sockets more than sculptures.
Bezel settings require careful consideration as there is a great deal of craftsmanship involved. The design itself ought to use the least amount of metal to hold a diamond in place. It must never obscure the stone's appearance or cover more than its very slight edge.
How Are Bezel Setting Crafted?
The bezel's metal rim is flattened and hammered softly over the diamond's edge to create a bezel setting. This is a skill based craft. Although bezels are most often associated with diamonds, they are also a fantastic option for softer gemstones that require more protection from everyday wear and tear, such as sapphires, rubies or emeralds.
Bezel setting also requires a little bit more metal to set, slightly adding to the cost of your engagement ring. It's important to select a highly skilled jeweller. The bezel's metal will be pounded around the diamond's edge by the diamond setter and great care and skill must be used when doing that to avoid misshapen uneven looking bezel. The setting should be uniform, crisp with a strong edge. Last thing any bride wants is a wonky badly crafted bezel.
Our setters have decades of experience crafting fine jewellery. Nobody wants to get all excited about a setting only to discover that it makes their diamond appear lifeless or black.
Do Diamonds in Bezel Sets Sparkle?
Both yes and no. Even the hardened of hearts will be amazed by an exceptional or ideal cut stone set into a beautifully crafted bezel. The glow of polished bezel compliments a perfectly cut diamond it holds.
A badly cut stone may appear lacklustre and dark when it is surrounded by a metal rim that covers the stone's upper surface. Pick your stone and bezel carefully. Here, at Valentina Fine Jewellery, our focus is always on the cut when showing our clients a selection of diamonds to choose from.
A Half Bezel Setting: What Is It?
A 2024 engagement ring trend we are noticing in particularly in USA, is a modern take on the classic bezel. A complete bezel forms a continuous rim of metal around the diamond's girdle. In a half bezel setting, only a portion of the diamond's girdle will be covered, leaving some of the diamond uncovered - typically out of the 4 sides of the diamond 2 are set in a half bezel whilst the other 2 are not.
While it has a different appearance, a partial bezel is just as secure and provides many of the same advantages as a full bezel in terms of comfort. Same as with a full bezel diamond ring, you either love the half bezel setting or you don't.
Do Diamonds in Bezel Settings Look Bigger?
It's rarely mentioned, but one huge benefit of the bezel is that it enlarges the appearance of your diamond, similar to a diamond halo effect by more than a small amount. Your diamond's diameter is increased by around half a millimetre by the bezel metal on each side. As a result, a one carat diamond appears closer to a 1.25 carat. What a great way to supersize your engagement ring look!
Why Choose a Bezel Setting for Your Engagement Ring?
A diamond ring setting is a highly personal choice, there is no right or wrong setting, it all really depends on if you love the look of a bezel setting. The functional advantages of a bezel won't be enough to convince you if you don't like the way it looks. If you are still here reading though, you are probably a bezel fan, so here are a few more reasons to love this stylish setting.
Most secure diamond engagement ring setting - do you fear that your diamond will fall out, are you quite clumsy or do a lot of physical activity in the day? Worried about broken prongs? You won't have to be as concerned about the minor knocks and bumps when you have an engagement ring set in a bezel. Your diamond's delicate girdle is shielded by the metal frame, giving you more time to worry about other things. So feel free to give it a little knock, that diamond is here to stay.
Lowest and most comfortable profile setting - some of our clients prefer a diamond which sits lower and closer to the finger, and does not stick up as much and of course prongs do have to be higher than the diamond, and may catch on things. Our bezel setting on the other hand can be low and secure on your finger if this is your preference, shielding it from snagging or getting caught on jumpers and clothes.